Dunmanway Historical Association Logo with a transparent background
A monochrome rural scene. On the left, a man wearing a flat cap and a rugged jacket stands in a field, holding the lead ropes of two horses. The background shows rolling hills and sparse trees. On the right, a large, four-storey stone castle or tower house with turrets is depicted against a dark, speckled night sky, with a small path leading to its entrance.

Plaque 9: Echoes of the Past

Plaque  9:  Sister Castles

Dunmanway Castle 

Castle Street is named after Dunmanway Castle, a 15th-century structure that stood on the north bank of the Sally River beside Castle Road. While documented in the Downe Survey of the mid-1600s, little remains of this early seat of the MacCarthys with the exception of the stones which were later repurposed in the construction of a Mill, now Cotter and Keane’s-on the Kilbarry Road. This was documented in local folklore and George Bennett’s 1869 History of Bandon.

Some attribute the destruction to Sir Richard Cox, who founded the market town in the 17th century and used the materials to build his  mansion, the “Long Bridge” over the River Bandon and the “Market House,” since demolished in 1972.

The fine cut stone was reportedly quarried near Kilbarry, close to the castle site. Remnants and markings of the castle are still visible at ground level, though the area is not accessible to the public. 

It was the chief residence of the MacCarthys of Gleannacroim. The tower house was confiscated in 1602, by  the Lord President of Munster, George Carew, as a consequence of Tadhg-an-Fhorsa’s participation in the Nine Years’ War in Munster. Tadgh an Fhorsa was the Gaelic chieftain who also commissioned the sister Castle at Togher in the late 1500s. In 1615, Tadhg-an-Fhorsa (I) the first , went a second time through the process of surrender and regrant to King James I, and on his death in 1618, Dunmanway Castle passed to his elder son and successor, Tadhg-an-Duna -the first , (I) (meaning “of the fortress”). While Togher Castle passed to his younger son Dermod. Tadhg – an-Duna for his part later in the 1641 Irish Rebellion saw his lands forfeited under the Cromwellian confiscations and by 1652, Tadhg’s widow, Honor O’Donovan and his youngest son, Callaghan are recorded as living in Dunmanway Castle . 

According to Daniel MacCarthy Glas writing in the 1860s, the poet Domhnall na-Tuile praised Tadhg, for his hospitality “for the bestowal of wines and tender beef, the love of humanity, Ireland possessed no chieftain equal to Tadhg—” Hence Tadhg is often referred to as Tadhg na Feile . Feile meaning “festival or feast” in Irish.

Recent research indicates that the old medieval graveyard at Kilbarry a short distance away may be the final resting place of many members of the MacCarthy’s of Gleannachroim -of these Sister Castles.

Meanwhile the sister castle at Togher is an impressive ruin a few kilometres to the north of Castle Street.

Plaque 9:Sister Castles 

Togher Castle

Togher Castle- located 10  kilometres to the north of the town is the Sister Castle to Dunmanway Castle. It is a sophisticated 16th century tower house , it is associated with the  MacCarthys of Gleannacroim. Commissioned by Tadhg an Fhorsa ( literally meaning -of the force) who was Chief of  the MacCarthys of Gleannacroim and who acquired the lands under the system of “surrender and regrant”.  

Characterised by their towering stone construction, they were strategically positioned against potential threats. The architectural blueprint of Togher reflects the MacCarthy branch’s ability to hire skilled master masons. Many tower houses feature a rectangular floor plan, with an offset internal wall which divides the space in two. However, stone masons at Togher caused this design to resemble the mathematical concept known as the golden ratio.

Consisting of four-storeys with the entrance at ground level on the eastern wall,  a medieval spiral stone staircase winds its way to the top. At the foot of the stairs is a tiny chamber known as chambrin á chodaigh” (the tyrant’s little room). The ground floor provided space for  food and animal housing. The main chambers on the first, second and third floors are illuminated by pairs of windows in the north and south walls. The second floor has a fireplace and the room. 

Defensive bartizans and machicolations overhang the northwest and southeast corners from where defenders could drop stones or burning liquids onto attackers below.

The MacCarthy Castles were forfeited during the Cromwellian confiscations of 1641. By 1667 , the Hoare Brothers, who came with Ireton’s Army in 1649 acquired Togher Castle and surrounding lands. After the Battle of the Boyne, several of the MacCarthy leaders took up military service in France.

In the mid- 1800s,  antiquarian Daniel MacCarthy Glas published a Historical Pedigree on the MacCarthys of Gleannacroim documenting their genealogies from whom he claimed descent.  Daniel – a frequent attempted to conserve the castle by erecting a corrugated iron roof , shipped from Liverpool , which remained intact until a storm in 2015. Displayed in the castle’s entrance lobby  is the MacCarthy Memorial Shield which he erected in1883 sculpted by renowned Cork sculptor, Patrick J. Scannell. 

The MacCarthys forged local alliances, Angelina daughter of Randal Og Hurley of Ballinacarriga Castle married Cormac Glas MacCarthy.

 Togher Castle continues to captivate and inspire enthusiasts of Irish history, and tourists with its vibrant narratives of the past. A detailed information panel is located in the vicinity of the Castle. Members of the MacCarthy Clan are interred in the old medieval graveyard at Kilbarry a short distance from Castle Street. 

Plaque 9: Ballabuidhe , Fair Days, Races and Festivals

Ballabuidhe, formerly called Ballyboy, was labelled the “Ascot of West Cork” by the Cork Examiner in 1937. Ballabuidhe horse fair was always a highly anticipated event on the social calendar. The Ballabuidhe Horse Fair has relocated in the area several times. It moved from Ballyboy to the Gazabo, to Prospect Lawn  before finally settling on what is today known as Droumleena Lawn Racecourse with the Horse Fair in the Market Square. The Tuesday night Gathering added a great sense of community to Ballabuidhe. Held at the start of August was no coincidence, with the dates surrounding the pagan festival of Lughnasa and the feast of St Christopher. While in the last century Dunmanway’s diaspora returned from far flung shores in August. In the 1980s, a Welcome Home Committee ran events in tandem with the Ballabuidhe Race Committee resulting in many headline artists of the 1908s, visiting Dunmanway including Hollywood icon, Maureen O’Hara. Each year the Ballabuidhe Race and  Festival Committees continue that centuries long tradition. 

The origins and folklore surrounding Ballabuidhe all set it apart. It has survived our tumultuous history, world wars and even at one point the fair and its quality bloodstock is rumoured to have reached Napoleon himself. So taken was he with the quality that a horse or two were purchased for his cavalry at the fair. Though this story may be a tall tale, it is a story that can be claimed by few other fairs.

Ballabuidhe maintains its status as Ireland’s second oldest fair, after the Lammas Fair in Ballycastle. Originally held in Ballyboy  – in Irish – Béal Atha Buidhe, translates as “mouth of the yellow ford”.  Ballabuidhe horse fair was the Óenach Mór of Dunmanway. The site was located a short distance from Fanlobbus Ecclesiastical Site. The site’s natural elevation and size created a perfect amphitheatre, offering space for crowds and horses and serving as an ideal grandstand.

The earliest record is from 1615, when King James granted Randal Og Hurley of Ballinacarriga Castle permission to hold a fair on July 25th and the following day. This occurred before Dunmanway was planned by Sir Richard Cox.

Some believe there was an earlier tradition existed in the area around the dates of 25th July to August 12th , these dates formed part of Lughnasa. If so, this would have predated the 1615 patent. Meanwhile , July 25th also linked to a Christian feast day, that of St. Christopher- patron saint of travellers and transportation. 

The traditional Tuesday gatherings are linked to Sir Richard Cox, who established a Market Town through patents for fairs and markets in 1693. As workers arrived to join his linen industry, the eve of the fair featured competitions and sales related to linen manufacture, continuing until the industry declined in the 1800s.

The advent of the Railway boosted Ballabuidhe. In 1866 there even was a stop at Ballyboy. A siding and loading bank in the fair field facilitated the transportation of purchased horses at Ballyboy Fair Field. Attendance declined, prompting a move in 1898 to the Gazabo near Castle Street. By 1900 the fair had over two thousand horses attend. Buyers soon began to conduct their business in the local streets and the Wednesday Fair in the Square gained acceptance. The Ballabuidhe Race Committee purchased Droumleena Lawn as a permanent grounds in 1952 and have continued their historic task of maintaining continuity which now includes several race categories including flat races, harness racing and trotting.